February 25, 2005
Arceo's deservedly packed for five dollar lunch
By Warren Epstein, The Gazette

I'd almost given up looking for what I used to think of as an affordable lunch.

Five bucks was my benchmark. For that, you should be able to get a decent meal that doesn't come from a paper bag with a clown on it.

A couple of weeks ago, a tip from a co-worker led to a jaunt down South Nevada Avenue, where I found the Holy Grail of cheap lunch meals.

Arceo's, a family restaurant in a remodeled Pizza Hut, offers 17 lunches at or less than $5, including chips and salsa, a side of rice and beans, a refillable fountain drink and a small honey-dripped sopapilla dessert.

Do the math. No wonder the place is packed at lunch time.

I recommend the Tacos al Carbon ($5), two soft corn or flour tacos stuffed with nicely lean, marinated steak, served with generous dollops of sour cream and guacamole.

I also appreciate the hot, fresh, crispy chips that arrive just after you sit down. Although the salsa is a bit thin, it's served with a fun, crunchy side- kick: a salsa with cabbage. Loved the texture.

The service at lunch is friendly and attentive.

But much of what makes Arceo's such a great lunch spot falls apart at dinner.

During a Tuesday night visit at 6 p.m., my family and I were the only guests in the dining room. Two waitresses chatted at the counter, and when we wanted to place our orders or get our check, we had to interrupt their conversations.

The prices at dinner, although reasonable, aren't noticeably low. The low-end combo plates cost $6.75 to $8.75, and the house specials cost $8.50 to $12.75.

The food is hit or miss.

We began with the Appetizer Combination Plate ($8.50), which promised "a little bit of everything." But the quesadillas and cheese crispi listed on the menu were M.I.A. What we got were nachos, smothered in enough cheese for five grilled cheese sandwiches, and some wonderful taquitos - deepfried rolled tortillas filled with flavorful chicken.

The Super Fajitas ($12), a combo with chicken, beef and shrimp with peppers and onions, came out sizzling and mostly overdone. Loved the addition of mushrooms. Didn't love the one-dimensional Mexican seasoning, which tasted like it had come from a single shaker.

The Chicken en Mole($8.95) was also a disappointment. This dish usually involves a spicy dark-brown sauce, sometimes with chocolate in it. In other words, pure heaven. Here, the mole is a tan, nondescript pool on the plate, filled with chunks of chicken.

For dessert, try Fried Ice Cream ($2.50), which offers a smooth and crackly consistency and makes a splashy presentation in a giant tortilla bowl.

The Flan ($1.75) is your standard Mexican custard, and the exotic-sounding Xangos ($3.50), tortillas filled with cheesecake, had ice crystals in them.

But it's tough to be too critical if you try one of the many top-notch margaritas. I went for the unconventional - the Huckleberry Margarita ($3), on the rocks. Although it could have benefited from a fruit garnish and maybe a sugared rim, the drink itself was splendid - tart, sweet and potent.

I expect to be a regular at Arceo's. But it'll be for those amazing lunch specials, or maybe the killer margaritas, or the amazing lunch specials AND the killer margaritas.

Of course, then I exceed my $5 mark. But even my grandfather would tell me, "Sometimes, you gotta live a little."

D E T A I L S

ARCEO'S
Warren's take: One of the best Mexican lunch values in town, but the value takes a dip when the sun goes down.

Address: 1605 S. Nevada Ave.
Phone: 442-2626 Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. every day
Plastic: Yes
Local checks: Yes
Liquor service: Full bar
Smoking: No
Kiddie fare: Small combination plates ($3.75-$5.50)
Vegetarian options: Seventeen entrees in a separate section of the menu.
Handicapped access: One level, good table spacing.
Parking: Plenty of spots on the side of the building.